Traveling by independent Maldives

© Sarah Ackerman / CC by 2.0

In recent years, a revolution has occurred in the Maldivian tourism caused by the decision of the Nasheed government to lift restrictions on independent travel. The Maldives are opening up for the first time in independent tourism. Despite the change of government, the genie is out of the bottle and does not appear close to returning.

A change of course

The Maldivian tourism had a very unusual pattern. Since the beginning of the first islands-hotels in the 1970s, the government has ensured that the local, passionate and conservative, is completely sidelined Westerners feasting on beaches in bikinis population. Incredibly, until 2009, all foreigners must have a permit to stay overnight in the Maldives, except in the islands hotels and the capital. Consequently, the only contact most people have with the outside world was limited to the occasional visit of a group from a nearby hotel, came to spend an hour or two and buy some souvenirs.

Now, tourists are free to travel and to spend the night where they see fit. Beyond some 110 islands hotels, the options are now almost limitless.

If this new situation seems exciting, it is not without creating problems. The country does not offer a long list of major sites or major cultural events. Frankly, except for the amazing underwater world and the various water sports, there is little to do here except enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the islands. Even this must be done in accordance with local customs rather strict. Nevertheless, for those who burn the stunning beaches and snorkeling sites in the Maldives, diving or fishing without imagine being confined in an island hotel, it's time to visit the country.

The national network of ferries

Long, independent travelers were faced with another problem, namely the lack of infrastructures for transportation in a country where the slightest movement is by boat. If there has always been a public service-dhoni ferries linking the islands to each other, times were so whimsical and long journeys if it was unthinkable for many people to visit the country this way. Now, a national network of ferries, based in Malé and the atolls capitals, with frequent links (and cheap) between all the inhabited islands of the country. It is still extremely difficult to obtain schedules, but since there is generally a pension to another, just ask the staff to them what time and where is the start.

As for the ferries themselves, they have little to gain momentum, but are a fascinating cultural experience. You will often be the only non-Maldivian dhoni aboard old and creaky vedhi that provide travel between the islands and atolls, a great way to meet people and to smell the scent of local life.

Accommodation: a growing number of pensions

Today, there are a number of pensions growing in the villages and towns that make up the Maldives islands outside the hotels. They are found mostly in the atolls near the capital, three or four hours by ferry from Male, though some are located in small atolls as remote as that of Noonu (10:00 ferry night ranging from Malé) or Haa Dhaalu, on the island of Hanimaadhoo (1 hour north of the capital by plane).

Generally, pensions are very similar. Modest and relatively small (6 rooms on average), they are nevertheless comfortable and designed a customer Mid and small budgets. They usually offer a full board accommodation (other dining options on the island are few, if any) and a full range of activities and excursions to fight against boredom. The latter information is critical because it often happens that there is little to do on a small island classic.

Activities are similar throughout the country to another: deserted island tours, barbecues on the beach, snorkeling, diving trips or fishing. Staff pensions is often part of the pleasant surprises. Young, enthusiastic and dynamic, are pioneers of local tourism. They usually speak excellent English and would love to show the best of their country to foreign visitors.

Respect the local culture 

When you visit the inhabited islands of the Maldives independently, we must be prepared to comply with certain local rules on dress and behavior, some of which do not necessarily correspond to the idea we have of vacation. Most restrictive perhaps relates to thetotal absence of alcohol in the country, except in the islands-hotels. It is even impossible to bring with you: its importation is prohibited and all luggage is X-rayed at the airport. You will need to settle for non-alcoholic beer, widespread throughout your stay. 

Another rule, equally compelling for many, reports to the dress code (especially for women, although men also need to be aware of). Today, of the inhabited islands, it is impossible for a woman to wear a bathing ordinary bath (not to mention bikinis). Maldivian women bathe fully clothed and men often keep their shirt.Consequently, all pensions organize daily excursions to uninhabited islands, where visitors can swim and sunbathe as in any other place in the world. This however means that it is almost impossible to provide a quick swim - it should instead spend hours on the beach during a trip, which can affect the spontaneity of it. Some large inhabited islands are developing "western beaches", where tourists can swim classic jersey, away local looks. However, in most cases, the islands are too small for this.